At the age of 89, Esther Mahlangu has become one of South Africa’s most celebrated artists, renowned not only for her striking artworks but also for her role in preserving and showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the Ndebele people. With her large-scale murals and vivid geometric patterns, Mahlangu has firmly positioned herself as an ambassador of Ndebele identity, both within South Africa and on the global stage. From her iconic collaboration with BMW to her exhibitions across continents, she is a living testament to the power of art as cultural expression.

The Legacy of Esther Mahlangu

Born on November 11, 1935, in the rural town of Middelburg in Mpumalanga, Mahlangu grew up surrounded by the vibrant art forms of the Ndebele people. Although she never attended formal schooling, Mahlangu was deeply influenced by the wall paintings done by the women in her family, particularly her grandmothers. Through years of practice, she learned the art of geometric painting, a tradition that has been passed down through generations in Ndebele culture.

Her first major recognition came when her work was showcased at the Botshabelo Open Air Museum in Middelburg, and by 1989, her unique style caught the attention of international curators. This led to an invitation to France, where she painted the walls of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, marking the beginning of a globe-trotting career that has taken her to Japan, the US, Italy, and beyond. Today, Mahlangu is known worldwide as the face of Southern Ndebele material culture, with her artwork serving as a vibrant expression of Ndebele-ness across time and space.

A Cultural Identity Woven in Paint

For the Ndebele people, wall painting has always been more than just decoration—it’s a way to express cultural identity and belonging. The Ndebele have used architecture, beadwork, and especially mural painting for centuries to assert their distinctive identity, particularly during times of displacement. As colonialism and apartheid led to the loss of land and the forced migration of many Ndebele people, these art forms became essential tools for preserving their heritage.

Women played a central role in this cultural preservation, using wall paintings to express values such as gender roles, marriage, and community identity. These intricate geometric designs were a way for Ndebele women to make their presence felt and to maintain their culture, especially during periods when men were often absent, working as migrant laborers in distant cities or on farms.

Traditionally, Ndebele paintings were made using clay, cow dung, and soil, with red, black, and white being the dominant colors. Over time, Mahlangu has evolved this tradition, incorporating modern materials like acrylic paints mixed with a touch of clay. She has even included contemporary motifs such as light bulbs and airplanes, blending the traditional with the modern in a celebration of both continuity and innovation.

Beadwork: A Living Language of Identity

Alongside her paintings, Mahlangu’s attire is another powerful symbol of her cultural identity. Ndebele women have long used beadwork as a form of personal expression, signalling age, marital status, and social roles through carefully crafted jewellery. Mahlangu’s stunning beaded blankets, necklaces, and bracelets not only reflect her deep connection to her heritage but also convey messages of growth and transformation.

Each bead and design holds significance, often marking milestones such as the transition from childhood to adulthood or welcoming individuals returning from initiation schools. Beadwork, much like wall paintings, is a generational practice, passed down to ensure that Ndebele culture endures.

Tradition Meets Innovation

What sets Mahlangu apart is her ability to blend the old and the new. While she has remained committed to preserving Ndebele tradition, she is also not afraid to push boundaries and experiment with new techniques and materials. For instance, Mahlangu was one of the first to incorporate the colors of the post-apartheid South African flag into her artwork, embracing the democratic values that emerged from the country’s transition.

Perhaps the most famous example of her innovation is her 1991 collaboration with BMW. Invited to paint one of their iconic art cars, Mahlangu used chicken feathers to apply her signature geometric designs to a BMW 525i, creating a striking fusion of indigenous South African art with international modernity. This commission, the first of its kind, placed her at the intersection of traditional art and commercial culture, marking a significant moment in the global appreciation of African visual arts.

Keeping Culture Alive in the Digital Age

In today’s digital world, where traditions are often diluted by globalization, Mahlangu’s art continues to shine as a beacon of cultural pride. Through her work, she ensures that the Ndebele people’s material culture is not only preserved but also elevated. The global success of Mahlangu’s art has brought Ndebele culture to international audiences, and her influence extends far beyond the art world.

In an age where culture is constantly evolving and adapting, Esther Mahlangu remains an icon, demonstrating that true innovation does not mean abandoning tradition, but rather, evolving it in ways that keep it alive for future generations. Through her murals, beadwork, and global collaborations, Mahlangu proves that art is not just about aesthetics—it’s about identity, resilience, and the continuous journey of cultural preservation.

As her retrospective exhibitions continue to captivate audiences in South Africa and around the world, Esther Mahlangu’s art stands as a powerful reminder that culture, when nurtured and celebrated, has the power to transcend boundaries and time.